Taiaha Peak, 16 - 17 February 2013

A most entertaining climb of the east ridge of Taiaha Peak, made challenging by the brittle nature of the rock. Starting from Monument Hut, we walked up the Hopkins River, crossed the swing-bridge over the Huxley River then climbed over the shoulder of Boanerges into the hanging valley of Paradise Creek. We set up camp at 1500m of elevation in a delightful basin just under pt 1734m. On Sunday we climbed the east ridge of Taiaha Peak from pt 2018m then descended to the Hopkins valley floor and returned to Monument Hut. Party: James Thornton and Danilo Hegg

Trip map. 1 grid square = 1km. Left click on map then select "Sizes -> Original" in bottom right corner of screen to view full size
Taiaha Peak from the east ridge of Boanerges, 1200m of elevation
Boanerges Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Paradise Creek Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 005a
Biggest ever wallow hole? Paradise Creek, Hopkins Valley
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Paradise Creek Taiaha Peak Tramping deer wallow hole Taiaha Peak 010a
Paradise Creek
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Paradise Creek Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 028a
Paradise Creek and Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Paradise Creek Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 037a
View up the Hopkins River from the tops east of Paradise Creek
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Hopkins Mount Williams Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 053a
Taiaha Peak east ridge from the tops east of Paradise Creek
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 057a
View down the Hopkins River from the tops east of Paradise Creek
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 071a
Taiaha Peak east ridge from the tops east of Paradise Creek
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 083a
The ridge tops west of Paradise Creek between Boanerges (left) and unnamed peak pt 2172m (right) from the east ridge of Taiaha Peak
Boanerges Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 093
James on the first section of Taiaha Peak's east ridge as seen from pt 2018m. The prominent peak at centre image is only the top of the first steep step, less than half-way to the summit
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Strauchon Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 098a
On the east ridge of Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 100a
James climbing rock of some description on the east ridge of Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 102a
More quality rock on Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 104a
View down the east ridge of Taiaha Peak from the top of the first step. We started the climb on pt 2018m (at centre image)
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 107a
James reaching the top of the first step on the east ridge of Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping choss Taiaha Peak 112a
James on the east ridge of Taiaha Peak, finally in sight of the summit. But still a long way to go!
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Strauchon Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 113a
James on the summit of Taiaha Peak. In the back are Mt Trent, Mt Fraser, Mt Hooker, Mt Dobson
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Dobson Mount Fraser Mount Hooker Mount Trent Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 120
Panorama from the summit of Taiaha Peak. From left to right are Mt Dechen, Mt Strachan (back), Mt Jackson (front) and Mt Ward. Gillies Peak is in the foreground, just left of Mt Ward
Climbing Gillies Peak Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Dechen Mount Jackson Mount Strachan Mount Ward Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 123a
Mt Strauchon and Brodrick Pass from Taiaha Peak. The Glacier of Mt MacKenzie on the far right
Brodrick Pass Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Strauchon Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 129
View down the east ridge of Taiaha Peak from the summit
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 133a
Paradise Creek and the lower Hopkins River from Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Paradise Creek Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 137
The lower Hopkins River and Lake Ohau from Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Lake Ohau Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 141a
Spot James, perched on a gendarme on the ridge of Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 146a
On the ridge of Taiaha Peak
Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 147a
The Naumann Range from Taiaha Peak: Unnamed Peak pt 2385m, Dasler Pinnacles and Mt Glencairn
Climbing Dasler Pinnacles Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Glencairn Mountaineering Naumann Range New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 153
View up the Hopkins Valley from the east ridge of Taiaha Peak
Aoraki Climbing Hopkins Hopkins River Hopkins Valley John Thomas Peak Mount Cook Mount Jackson Mount Ward Mountaineering New Zealand Ohau Taiaha Peak Tramping Taiaha Peak 156