Mount Madeline, 1 - 4 December 2009

On the first day we had an early start for the long walk in to Turner's Biv. Rain, a difficult crossing at Leader Creek and navigational issues in fog in the upper part of the route meant we were caught by nightfall 100m below the bivvy. The next day, we reached the bivvy rock to find it occupied by a party of five that had flown in. After an attempt on Mt Syme, aborted 80m below the summit on the ridge separating the Tutoko valley from the Hollyford in complete whiteout, we settled for an uncomfortable, crammed rock 150m below Turner's Biv. On the third day, we climbed Mt Madeline in perfect weather and conditions, then descended to an idyllic campsite at the head of Leader Creek. Party: Benjamin Hepp, George O'Sullivan, Danilo Hegg

South Island mountain foxglove (Ourisia macrocarpa), Limerick Creek
Climbing Limerick Creek New Zealand Tutoko Valley ourisia macrocarpa south island mountain foxglove Tramping Mountaineering Fiordland Leader Creek
Tutoko River, Grave Couloir and Paranui Peak
Climbing New Zealand Grave Couloir Tutoko Valley Tutoko River Tramping Paranui Peak Fiordland Mountaineering
Tutoko River, Grave Couloir and Paranui Peak
Climbing New Zealand Grave Couloir Mt Grave Tutoko Valley Tutoko River Tramping Paranui Peak Fiordland Mountaineering
Taking a rest by the Tutoko River
Climbing Tutoko Valley Tutoko River New Zealand Tramping Mt Grave Fiordland Mountaineering
Tutoko River, looking down valley and into the Upper Cleddau, framed by Mt Isolation (centre left) and Sheerdown Peak (right)
Climbing New Zealand Sheerdown Peak Tutoko Valley Darran Mountains Tutoko River Tramping Mt Isolation Fiordland Mountaineering
Looking into Leader Creek from the Tutoko valley floor. Mt Madeline at centre image
Climbing New Zealand Turner Pass Age Glacier Mt Madeline Tutoko Valley Darran Mountains Turners Biv Tramping Mountaineering Fiordland Leader Creek
Enlarged detail from the above photograph. The route through the bluffs to Turner's Biv
Climbing New Zealand Turner Pass Age Glacier Mt Madeline Tutoko Valley Darran Mountains Turners Biv Tramping Mountaineering Fiordland Leader Creek

Gilda Otway
on May 2, 2011
Some facts for the young lads:- I & several others in photo have walked in & out several times before! & Turners Bivy was buried under snow! our marginal rock continously filled with water & no mention of flying restrictions by pilot. We, who get into the hills once a year due to family committments were unaware of these maybe new rules - please forgive but we also love to get into the outdoors.
Danilo
on October 19, 2010
No, they walked out. And it is illegal to fly in after December 1st. They flew in on November 30th, then occupied the bivvy for 4 nights. Nice way around the regulations, hugh? Fully agree, they missed out big times...
Jon Taylor
on October 18, 2010
Nice photos Danilo. Interested to hear and see that people flew in to Turner's since, as far as I was aware, it is illegal except in winter. Details will be in the Alpine Club guidebook, possibly Robin's latest Moir's. If it is legal, then these slackarses missed out on a great expedition and mountain journey. I wonder if they flew out too?