Mount Tutoko, 3 - 6 October 2011
At Homer Hut, all ready for departure
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandHomer HutMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTutokoclimbing gearpackMount013
Tutoko Valley: Grave Couloir and Paranui Peak
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Tutoko Vally river flats, looking south to Mt Underwood
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Tutoko Valley, below the junction of Leader Creek
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Whio or blue duck (Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos), Leader Creek
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Whio or blue duck (Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos), Leader Creek
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Leader Creek and the Age Glacier. The route to Turners Biv follows the diagonal spur at centre right
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandLeader CreekMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTutokoTutoko ValleyMount058
Lunch spot at the top of Leader Falls
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandLeader CreekMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTutokoTutoko ValleyMount066
Route through the bluffs below Turners Biv
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The bluffs south of Turners Biv, Leader Creek
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Climbing through the bluffs below Turners Biv. OK, this picture really doesn't show the verticality of the terrain!
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandLeader CreekMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTurners BivTutokoTutoko ValleyMount093
Turner Pass and the western ramparts of Mount Madeline
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The south face of Mount Tutoko at dusk
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Looking across the Tutoko Valley to unnamed peak 1934m on the south ridge of Mount Grave
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Looking across the Tutoko Valley to unnamed peak 1934m on the south ridge of Mount Grave
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Campsite at the 'Rock of Discomfort', 200m below Turners Biv. The south face of Mount Tutoko above
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View down Leader Creek and into the Tutoko Valley from our campsite near the 'Rock of Discomfort'
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandLeader CreekMount GraveMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTutokoTutoko ValleyMount124
Campsite at the 'Rock of Discomfort', 200m below Turners Biv. Turner Pass above
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Looking up to the towring séracs of the Madeline icefall. We retreated and took a longer but safer route
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Our route up the south face of Mount Tutoko
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Approaching our second campsite at the toe of Mt Madeline's western ramparts
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The Sheerdown Hills and Mount Elliot from our campsite below Mt Madeline
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandMount AdaMount ElliotMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandSheerdown HillsTrampingTutokoMount169
Campsite at the toe of Mount Madeline's western ramparts
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The exposed ramps below Turner Pass, giving access to the south face of Mount Tutoko
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Séracs on the south face of Mount Tutoko
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The ice cap near the top of Mount Tutoko's south-east ridge
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View south from the upper slopes of Mount Tutoko
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On the upper slopes of Mount Tutoko. Mount Madeline behind
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On the upper slopes of Mount Tutoko's south face
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An ice flake bridges a massive crevasse near the top of Mount Tutoko's south face
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On Mount Tutoko's summit ice cap
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View into the Tutoko Valley from the summit ridge of Mount Tutoko. The Takitimu Mountains are on the far left horizon, Mount Titiroa just left of centre image, Mount Irene and Coronation Peak on the far right
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View from the summit ridge of Mount Tutoko: Llawrenny Peaks, Mount Grave, Mount Pembroke
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View from the summit ridge of Mount Tutoko: Mount Pembroke, Grave Couloir, Paranui Peak, Ngapunatoru ice plateau
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandGrave CouloirMount PembrokeMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandNgapunatoru PassNgapunatoru PlateauParanui PeakTrampingTutokoMount269
Approaching the summit of Mount Tutoko
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On Fiordland's highest point
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Donne Glacier Lake. Mount Aspiring and the Forbes Mountains above
ClimbingDarran MountainsDonne GlacierFiordlandForbes MountainsMount AspiringMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandTrampingTutokoMount316
View into Stickup Creek and Lake Iceberg. The Skippers Range at centre image, between Lake McKerrow (left) and Lake Alabaster (right)
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandLake AlabasterLake IcebergLake McKerrowMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandSkippers RangeStickup CreekTrampingTutokoMount322
Jaz is all smiles on the summit of Mount Tutoko
ClimbingDarran MountainsFiordlandMount TutokoMountaineeringNew ZealandNgapunatoru PassNgapunatoru PlateauTrampingTutokoMount331
Nick Neynens
on January 12, 2012Awesome trip, congratulations. I too see this peak all the time and still long to climb it!
Your photos are a great resource, cheers
Bob McKerrow
on January 9, 2012Wonderful photos. Thanks for sharing. You were lucky with the weather. I got stuck up the head of Leader Creek for 6 days in 1970, and we were engulfed in a massive flood. I would like to discuss using one or two photos on my blog on my Great Grandfather James McKerrow who explored large parts of Fiordland. The blog is: jamesmckerrowsurveyor.blogspot.com