A trip we had been coveting for over 10 years, and a first crossing out of MacKay Creek into the Transit River.
Day 1: We paddled across Deepwater Basin in Milford Sound, then walked the Milford Track as far as the MacKay Falls. We climbed on the true right of the waterfall to a campsite in the river-bed of MacKay Creek.
Day 2: A painful 12 hours bush-bashing up MacKay Creek to cover 2km to the lake outlet.
Day 3: We wated out the morning for the rain to clear, then paddled across the MacKay Lake and travelled up dry creek beds to a campsite at the head of the valley. In the evening, I scouted the route for the next day.
Day 4: We climbed a system of chimneys and ledges leading out of the MacKay Creek headcirque to "The Watchtower" (Pt 1674m). Presumably the first ascent of the mountain, and what a wonderful all-round view! After traversing the tops to Pt 1632m (another great viewpoint), we descended to Lake Liz, where we found the old kakapo workers biv in a derelict state.
Day 5: We climbed back over the shoulder of Pt 1632m then traversed shelves towards "Disgusting Saddle" (Pt 1024m) in an attempt at reaching Mt Danger. The descent to the saddle proved too airy, and the climb out of the saddle on the opposite side looked daunting also, so we retreated to Lake Liz and started on our descent to the Transit River valley floor. We camped two thirds of the way down next to a beautiful rata tree.
Day 6: Pit day, sitting out a decent rain storm.
Day 7: Down to the Transit River and on to a hunters' camp in the river flats below the non-existent Hoani Falls. In the evening, Max found the warm springs, which we all inspected the next morning.
Day 8: I paddled down the Transit River to the coast then walked to the western end of Transit Beach, while the rest of the party walked down the valley. Great campsite on the true right of the river mouth.
Day 9: Over the hill to Anita Bay, where we had launch on the rocky coastline. While sidling to the nearby beach, I broke my left humerus and required evacuation by helicopter - only 50 metres from our boat pick-up! A very painful way to end a wonderful trip. The rest of the party took the boat to Milford Sound.
Party: Max Olsen, James Thornton, Peter Wilson, Danilo Hegg

At Transit Beach, we were lucky enough to observe the moult of a cicada. Click here to see the images