Major Peak, 9 - 10 April 2016

An elegant traverse over the summit of Major Peak, Wakatipu (2126m).
On Saturday we climbed the spur on the true right of Lake Face Creek, then up the west face to the summit. We descended to the north east, then crossed over the east ridge onto the southern slopes of the mountain. We camped at 1500m of elevation, high above Luna Basin.
On Sunday we descended to Lake Luna, then walked south past Dukes Tarn, crossed Twenty Five Mile Creek and over Reidys Spur to Mount Creighton Station.
Party: Ed Ivison, Kat Manno, Juliet Meldrum, Robert Schadewinkel, Danilo Hegg.

Route description:

From Lake Wakatipu (west face):
From the gravel pit on the north side of Lake Face Creek, follow a 4WD track then sheep trails through the scrub, which lead to open country above. It's easy walking up the spur on the true right of Lake Face Creek to the 1700m contour, where it is possible to sidle right onto the face of Major Peak. Cross a boulder field then up a broad ledge before scrambling on steep but easy rock directly to the summit.

South to Lake Luna:
From the summit of Major Peak, descend 50m to the north east, zig-zagging on ledges between small rock steps, then follow below the east ridge to a scree shoulder at 2000m of elevation. At one point it is necessary to descend on scree on the Wire Creek side, then climb again to regain the ridge. Here, a good diagonal scree gully leads down the south side of the mountain to a tarn at 1800m of elevation. A long diagonal descending sidle to the right, on good animal trails across bluffs, leads to easier slopes above Luna Basin. There is a flat area with another small tarn at 1500m of elevation, at CB10 429 154. Continue sidling diagonally down right on tussock slopes and across two spurs to the easy open ground above Luna Creek.

As to April 2016 the route is entirely on private land and permission for access must be obtained from the manager of Mount Creighton Station, phone 03 442 9934.

Trip map. 1 grid square = 1km. Left click on map then select "Sizes -> Original" in bottom right corner of screen to view full size.
As to April 2016 the route is entirely on private land and permission for access must be obtained from the manager of Mount Creighton Station, phone 03 442 9934.
View of Major Peak from Mt Crichton. May 2015
Major Peak 000a Climbing Major Peak Mount Crichton Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Glenorchy, the Dart River and Mount Alfred from the lower slopes of Major Peak
Major Peak 001 Dart River Glenorchy Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mount Alfred Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka and the mouth of the Greenstone River from the lower slopes of Major Peak
Major Peak 005 Greenstone River Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Pigeon Island Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu Wāwāhi Waka
Panorama of Lake Wakatipu from the lower slopes of Major Peak. Pig Island / Mātau and Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka are at centre image.
Major Peak 016a Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mountaineering Mātau New Zealand Otago Pig Island Pigeon Island Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu Wāwāhi Waka
Eyebright (Euphrasia zelandica). Major Peak, Wakatipu
Major Peak 023 Euphrasia zelandica Flora Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu eyebright
From Eyebright / Euphrasia zelandica
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 040 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
From Kea
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 046 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
From Kea
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 055 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
From Kea
Major Peak west face
Major Peak 062 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Major Peak west face route topo
Major Peak 062 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu route topo
Ed on the summit of Major Peak, looking down into Wire Creek
Major Peak 069 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu Wire Creek
View of Lake Wakatipu, Glenorchy and the Dart River from the summit of Major Peak. Stone Peak is just under the cloud cover on the far right.
Major Peak 071 Dart River Glenorchy Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Stone Peak Tramping Wakatipu
Brocken spectre on the summit of Major Peak
Major Peak 073 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu brocken spectre glory
On the summit of Major Peak
Major Peak 077 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
View down Lake Face Creek to Lake Wakatipu
Major Peak 078 Lake Face Creek Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
View into Luna Basin and Lake Luna from Major Peak, with brocken spectre.
Major Peak 080 Lake Luna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu brocken spectre glory
View into Luna Basin and Lake Luna from Major Peak.
Major Peak 081 Lake Luna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka and the mouth of the Greenstone River from the summit of Major Peak
Major Peak 082 Greenstone River Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Pigeon Island Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu Wāwāhi Waka
View down the South Ridge of Major Peak. Pig Island / Mātau is in the background.
Major Peak 086 Lake Wakatipu Major Peak Matau Mountaineering Mātau New Zealand Otago Pig Island Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
The east ridge of Major Peak
Major Peak 089 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Descent into Luna Basin
Major Peak 092 Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Sneaky descent route off the east ridge of Major Peak
Major Peak 103 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Tarn at 1850m of elevation on the southern slopes of Major Peak
Major Peak 106 Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu tarn
Tarn at 1850m of elevation on the southern slopes of Major Peak
Major Peak 108 Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu tarn
Descent route from the east ridge of Major Peak on right
Major Peak 110 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Montia sessiliflora. Major Peak, Wakatipu
Major Peak 113 Flora Luna Basin Major Peak Montia sessiliflora Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
From Montia sessiliflora
Setting up camp high above Luna Basin
Major Peak 116 Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu camp camping tent
Ben More at sunset
Major Peak 119 Ben More Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Ben More at sunset
Major Peak 123 Ben More Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu tarn
The Milky Way over Ben More
Major Peak 132 Astrophotography Ben More Luna Basin Major Peak Milky Way Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu night night photography night sky stars tarn
Garden orbweb spider (Eriophora pustulosa). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 133 Eriophora pustulosa Fauna Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu arachnid garden orbweb spider spider
From Eriophora pustulosa - Garden orbweb spider
Sheetweb spider (Genus Cambridgea). Major Peak, Wakatipu
Major Peak 174 Cambridgea Fauna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu arachnid sheetweb spider spider
From Genus Cambridgea
Cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak Fauna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Pharmacus Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu cave weta cave wētā insect tokoriro Pharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak Fauna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Pharmacus Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu cave weta cave wētā insect tokoriro Pharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Mites (Order Prostigmata) parasitizing a cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak Fauna Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Pharmacus Prostigmata Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu cave weta cave wētā insect mite parasite tokoriro Pharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Male ground wētā (Hemiandrus focalis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 188 Fauna Hemiandrus focalis Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu ground weta ground wētā insect
From Hemiandrus focalis
Male ground wētā (Hemiandrus focalis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 195 Fauna Hemiandrus focalis Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu ground weta ground wētā insect
From Hemiandrus focalis
Moss beetle (Family Byrrhidae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 161 Byrrhidae Fauna Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu beetle insect moss beetle
From Unidentified moss beetles
Moss beetle (Family Byrrhidae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 179 Byrrhidae Fauna Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu beetle insect moss beetle
From Unidentified moss beetles
The Milky Way over Ben More
Major Peak 201 Astrophotography Ben More Luna Basin Major Peak Milky Way Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu night night photography night sky stars tarn
Ben More at dawn
Major Peak 210 Ben More Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Ben More at dawn
Major Peak 219 Ben More Luna Basin Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Sunrise at our campsite high above Luna Basin
Major Peak 236 Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Turf mat daisy (Raoulia subsericea). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
Major Peak 239 Flora Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Raoulia subsericea Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu turf mat daisy
From Turf mat daisy - Raoulia subsericea
Ben More, Crush Creek and Luna Creek from the slopes of Major Peak
Major Peak 260 Ben More Crush Creek Luna Creek Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Lake Luna at the head of Luna Creek
Major Peak 271a Lake Luna Luna Creek Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu
Lake Luna and Major Peak
Major Peak 285 Lake Luna Luna Creek Major Peak Mountaineering New Zealand Otago Southern Alps Tramping Wakatipu

Southern Alps Photography

Major Peak, 9 - 10 April 2016

Gallery comments