Major Peak, 9 - 10 April 2016
On Saturday we climbed the spur on the true right of Lake Face Creek, then up the west face to the summit. We descended to the north east, then crossed over the east ridge onto the southern slopes of the mountain. We camped at 1500m of elevation, high above Luna Basin.
On Sunday we descended to Lake Luna, then walked south past Dukes Tarn, crossed Twenty Five Mile Creek and over Reidys Spur to Mount Creighton Station.
Party: Ed Ivison, Kat Manno, Juliet Meldrum, Robert Schadewinkel, Danilo Hegg.
Route description:
From Lake Wakatipu (west face):
From the gravel pit on the north side of Lake Face Creek, follow a 4WD track then sheep trails through the scrub, which lead to open country above. It's easy walking up the spur on the true right of Lake Face Creek to the 1700m contour, where it is possible to sidle right onto the face of Major Peak. Cross a boulder field then up a broad ledge before scrambling on steep but easy rock directly to the summit.
South to Lake Luna:
From the summit of Major Peak, descend 50m to the north east, zig-zagging on ledges between small rock steps, then follow below the east ridge to a scree shoulder at 2000m of elevation. At one point it is necessary to descend on scree on the Wire Creek side, then climb again to regain the ridge. Here, a good diagonal scree gully leads down the south side of the mountain to a tarn at 1800m of elevation. A long diagonal descending sidle to the right, on good animal trails across bluffs, leads to easier slopes above Luna Basin. There is a flat area with another small tarn at 1500m of elevation, at CB10 429 154. Continue sidling diagonally down right on tussock slopes and across two spurs to the easy open ground above Luna Creek.
As to April 2016 the route is entirely on private land and permission for access must be obtained from the manager of Mount Creighton Station, phone 03 442 9934.
View of Major Peak from Mt Crichton. May 2015
MajorPeak000aClimbingMajor PeakMount CrichtonMountaineeringNew ZealandSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Glenorchy, the Dart River and Mount Alfred from the lower slopes of Major Peak
MajorPeak001Dart RiverGlenorchyLake WakatipuMajor PeakMount AlfredMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka and the mouth of the Greenstone River from the lower slopes of Major Peak
MajorPeak005Greenstone RiverLake WakatipuMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoPigeon IslandSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuWāwāhi Waka
Panorama of Lake Wakatipu from the lower slopes of Major Peak. Pig Island / Mātau and Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka are at centre image.
MajorPeak016aLake WakatipuMajor PeakMountaineeringMātauNew ZealandOtagoPig IslandPigeon IslandSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuWāwāhi Waka
Eyebright (Euphrasia zelandica). Major Peak, Wakatipu
MajorPeak023Euphrasia zelandicaFloraMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipueyebright
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak040Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
From Kea
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak046Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
From Kea
Kea (Nestor notabilis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak055Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
From Kea
Major Peak west face route topo
MajorPeak062Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuroute topo
Ed on the summit of Major Peak, looking down into Wire Creek
MajorPeak069Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuWire Creek
View of Lake Wakatipu, Glenorchy and the Dart River from the summit of Major Peak. Stone Peak is just under the cloud cover on the far right.
MajorPeak071Dart RiverGlenorchyLake WakatipuMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsStone PeakTrampingWakatipu
Brocken spectre on the summit of Major Peak
MajorPeak073Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipubrocken spectreglory
On the summit of Major Peak
MajorPeak077Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
View down Lake Face Creek to Lake Wakatipu
MajorPeak078Lake Face CreekLake WakatipuMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
View into Luna Basin and Lake Luna from Major Peak, with brocken spectre.
MajorPeak080Lake LunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipubrocken spectreglory
View into Luna Basin and Lake Luna from Major Peak.
MajorPeak081Lake LunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Pigeon Island / Wāwāhi Waka and the mouth of the Greenstone River from the summit of Major Peak
MajorPeak082Greenstone RiverLake WakatipuMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoPigeon IslandSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuWāwāhi Waka
View down the South Ridge of Major Peak. Pig Island / Mātau is in the background.
MajorPeak086Lake WakatipuMajor PeakMatauMountaineeringMātauNew ZealandOtagoPig IslandSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
The east ridge of Major Peak
MajorPeak089Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Descent into Luna Basin
MajorPeak092Luna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Sneaky descent route off the east ridge of Major Peak
MajorPeak103Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Tarn at 1850m of elevation on the southern slopes of Major Peak
MajorPeak106Luna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatiputarn
Tarn at 1850m of elevation on the southern slopes of Major Peak
MajorPeak108Luna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatiputarn
Descent route from the east ridge of Major Peak on right
MajorPeak110Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Montia sessiliflora. Major Peak, Wakatipu
MajorPeak113FloraLuna BasinMajor PeakMontia sessilifloraMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
From Montia sessiliflora
Setting up camp high above Luna Basin
MajorPeak116Luna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipucampcampingtent
Garden orbweb spider (Eriophora pustulosa). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak133Eriophora pustulosaFaunaMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuarachnidgarden orbweb spiderspider
Sheetweb spider (Genus Cambridgea). Major Peak, Wakatipu
MajorPeak174CambridgeaFaunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuarachnidsheetweb spiderspider
From Genus Cambridgea
Cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeakFaunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoPharmacusSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipucave wetacave wētāinsecttokoriroPharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeakFaunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoPharmacusSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipucave wetacave wētāinsecttokoriroPharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Mites (Order Prostigmata) parasitizing a cave wētā (Pharmacus chapmanae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeakFaunaLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoPharmacusProstigmataSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipucave wetacave wētāinsectmiteparasitetokoriroPharmacus chapmanae
From Pharmacus chapmanae
Male ground wētā (Hemiandrus focalis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak188FaunaHemiandrus focalisLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuground wetaground wētāinsect
From Hemiandrus focalis
Male ground wētā (Hemiandrus focalis). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak195FaunaHemiandrus focalisLuna BasinMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipuground wetaground wētāinsect
From Hemiandrus focalis
Moss beetle (Family Byrrhidae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak161ByrrhidaeFaunaMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipubeetleinsectmoss beetle
Moss beetle (Family Byrrhidae). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak179ByrrhidaeFaunaMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipubeetleinsectmoss beetle
Sunrise at our campsite high above Luna Basin
MajorPeak236Major PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Turf mat daisy (Raoulia subsericea). Major Peak, Wakatipu.
MajorPeak239FloraMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoRaoulia subsericeaSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatiputurf mat daisy
Ben More, Crush Creek and Luna Creek from the slopes of Major Peak
MajorPeak260Ben MoreCrush CreekLuna CreekMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
Lake Luna at the head of Luna Creek
MajorPeak271aLake LunaLuna CreekMajor PeakMountaineeringNew ZealandOtagoSouthern AlpsTrampingWakatipu
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