Mount Bonpland traverse, 12 - 13 January 2015

Third time lucky, I finally made it to the summit of Mount Bonpland.
On Monday we walked up the Glacier Burn Track to the Bryant Glacier, where we left much of our gear. We then continued to the summit via the south-east ridge (grade 3), sidling on the Bryant Glacier side where required. We reached the summit at 8:20pm, then continued over the false summit on the north ridge. At 10:30pm, we were benighted at 2300m.
After a night without sleep, we continued down the north-west slopes of the mountain to the saddle Pt 1693m, then walked anti-clockwise around Mount Bonpland and back to the Bryant Glacier via the saddle between Pt 2195m and Pt 2187m.
Party: Gemma Wilson & Danilo Hegg

Trip map. 1 grid square = 1km. Left click on map then select "Sizes -> Original" in bottom right corner of screen to view full size.
Mount Bonpland 000a
Mount Bonpland route topo 1 - bypassing the gendarmes west of Pt 2195m
From the Bryant Glacier, follow easy ground to a broad scree ledge cutting under the bluffs of Pt 2195m. A number of ramps heading diagonally up to the right depart from this ledge. The second ramp from the bottom provides a good if exposed access route to the first of two broad ledges on the east face of Pt 2276m.
Mount Bonpland 013a Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme route topo
Mount Bonpland route topo 2
From the lower ledge on the east face of Pt 2276m, climb up and left to where a crack allows easy scrambling on solid rock to the upper ledge.
Follow the upper ledge to the right, then up a steeper slope to a chimney that gives access to the north ridge of Pt 2276m. Bluffs either side of Mt Bonpland's southern couloir impede any further progress on this side of the mountain.
It is necessary to climb right over Pt 2276m instead, then descend steeply to the incision before a pointy, rotten gendarme on the ridge (1 abseil might be required). Descend on the left (Caples) side of the incision, and with one abseil (10m) to a system of ledges on the south (Caples) side of the ridge. Regain the ridge past the gendarme; there's some exposed climbing on poor rock on the ridge before easier ground is reached higher up. This whole section is not visible in the photograph.
Follow an obvious ledge to the right again (Bryant Glacier side) then scramble directly upwards to what looks like the summit.
Mount Bonpland 100 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Mount Bonpland route topo 3 - from the southern false summit to the high peak
From the false summit, it's still a short but entertaining climb up an exposed buttress directly to the high point (1 pitch, or 2 short pitches).
Notice: don't be tempted to sidle the snow slope on the right - it leads to the northern false summit, from where access to the high peak is by no means easier.
Mount Bonpland 041a Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Mount Bonpland route topo 4 - from the high peak to the northern false summit
If traversing the mountain, this pitch is the crux of the climb. It is possible to climb the exposed buttress to the low peak (grade 14), or Dave McLean's tunnel further left (segmented line on photograph). Access to the latter is by now means easy; both options require using a rope and some proper rock-climbing.
Mount Bonpland 042a Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The Richardson Mountains from the Bryant Glacier, Glacier Burn.
Mount Bonpland 006 Bryant Glacier Centaur Peaks Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Ferguson Mountaineering New Zealand Richardson Mountains Southern Alps Stair Peak Temple Peak Tramping
Pt 2016m (Humboldt Mountains) just north of the Bryant Glacier. The Richardson Mountains are in the background.
Mount Bonpland 010 Bryant Glacier Centaur Peaks Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Ferguson Mountaineering New Zealand Richardson Mountains Southern Alps Tramping
Approaching the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland from the Glacier Burn
Mount Bonpland 011 Bryant Glacier Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The couloir leading from the Bryant Glacier to the north ridge of Mount Bonpland. A bit cut up at this time of the year.
Mount Bonpland 012 Bryant Glacier Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Gendarmes on the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland, west of Pt 2195m
Mount Bonpland 014 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme
More gendarmes on the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 015 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme
Looking down into the head of the Glacier Burn from the slopes of Mount Bonpland. Mount Earnslaw is in the background
Mount Bonpland 018 Bryant Glacier Climbing Glacier Burn Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Earnslaw Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The Richardson Mountains and Rees River from the slopes of Mount Bonpland. Mount Ferguson is on the far left; Unnamed Peak Pt 2413m is at centre image
Mount Bonpland 019 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Ferguson Mountaineering New Zealand Rees River Richardson Mountains Southern Alps Tramping
Scrambling towards the gendarme Pt 2276m
Mount Bonpland 020 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping scramble scrambling
Looking up to the southern false summit of Mount Bonpland. We climbed through the V-shaped snow patch high up at centre image.
Mount Bonpland 022 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Mount Bonpland's northern couloir
Mount Bonpland 023 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The southern false summit of Mount Bonpland from Pt 2276m. Our route follows the ridge to the final headwall, then right along the ledge before heading up again through the V-shaped snow patch to the false summit.
Mount Bonpland 026 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Packing the rope after abseiling under a gendarme west of Pt 2276m.
Mount Bonpland 027 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme
View of Mount Bonpland ahead, and a rock step on the narrow ridge awaiting us
Mount Bonpland 030 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The steep gendarme west of Pt 2276m - getting past this is one of the crux sections on Mount Bonpland's south-east ridge.
Mount Bonpland 032 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
On the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland, just beyond the gendarmes.
Mount Bonpland 035 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme scramble scrambling
View of the Caples River and Ailsa Mountains from high up on the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 036 Ailsa Mountains Caples River Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Looking back to Pt 2276m, Bold Peak and Lake Wakatipu from the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland. Notice the shadow of the narrow gendarme in front of Pt 2276m.
Mount Bonpland 037 Bold Peak Climbing Humboldt Mountains Lake Wakatipu Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping gendarme
View into the lower Rees and Dart Rivers from high up on the south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 039 Climbing Dart River Humboldt Mountains Mount Alfred Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Rees River Richardson Mountains Southern Alps Tramping
The high peak of Mount Bonpland from the southern false summit.
Mount Bonpland 041 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The northern false summit of Mount Bonpland from the high peak.
Mount Bonpland 042 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
The Darran Mountains from Mount Bonpland in the evening light. Mount Tutoko stands out at centre image.
Mount Bonpland 046 Climbing Darran Mountains Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Tutoko Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
On the summit of Mount Bonpland; Lake Wakatipu in the background.
Mount Bonpland 050 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Lake Wakatipu Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
On the summit of Mount Bonpland; Lake Wakatipu in the background.
Mount Bonpland 052 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Lake Wakatipu Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Mount Temple and the Rees River from Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 054 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Temple Mountaineering New Zealand Rees River Southern Alps Tramping
Mount Earnslaw / Pikirakatahi from Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 055 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Earnslaw Mountaineering New Zealand Pikirakatahi Southern Alps Tramping
After 17 hours on her feet, Gemma is still in high spirits at the start of a sleepless night near the summit of Mt Bonpland.
Mount Bonpland 058 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping benighted bivvy
Ailsa Mountains, Pt 2096m and Pt 2024m from the western slopes of Mount Bonpland
Mount Bonpland 059 Ailsa Mountains Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
There's ultramafic rock in the basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier
Mount Bonpland 060 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping ultramafic rock
Tarn in ultramafic rock, in the basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier
Mount Bonpland 062 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping ultramafic rock
Tarn in ultramafic rock, in the basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier. Ultra clear - there's no algal growth in it!
Mount Bonpland 064 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping ultramafic rock
A large cushion of rock cushion (Phyllachne colensoi) and Hectorella caespitosa on ultramafic rock. Basin between Sleepy Hollow and Bryant Glacier, Humboldt Mountains.
Mount Bonpland 067 Climbing Flora Hectorella caespitosa Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Phyllachne colensoi Rock cushion Southern Alps Tramping ultramafic rock
From Rock cushion - Phyllachne colensoi
Rock cushion (Phyllachne colensoi) and Hectorella caespitosa. Alpine basin between Sleepy Hollow and Bryant Glacier, Humboldt Mountains.
Mount Bonpland 069 Climbing Flora Hectorella caespitosa Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Phyllachne colensoi Rock cushion Southern Alps Tramping
From Rock cushion - Phyllachne colensoi
Hectorella caespitosa. Alpine basin between Sleepy Hollow and Bryant Glacier, Humboldt Mountains.
Mount Bonpland 073 Climbing Flora Hectorella caespitosa Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
From Hectorella caespitosa
In the alpine basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier. Bold Peak in the background.
Mount Bonpland 074 Bold Peak Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Ultramafic rock in the alpine basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier. The David Peaks (Livingstone Mountains) are on the skyline on the far left. Pt 2096m (high point of the Ailsa Mountains) is at centre image. Pt 2024m (Ailsa Mountains) is on the right.
Mount Bonpland 076 Ailsa Mountains Climbing David Peaks Humboldt Mountains Livingstone Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping ultramafic rock
Bold Peak from the alpine basin between Sleepy Hollow and the Bryant Glacier
Mount Bonpland 078 Bold Peak Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
View into Reids Creek (front) and the Pass Burn (back). Mount Mavora is on the skyline on the right.
Mount Bonpland 079 Ailsa Mountains Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mount Mavora Mountaineering New Zealand Pass Burn Reids Creek Southern Alps Tramping
The south-east ridge of Mount Bonpland from the south-west ridge of Pt 2195m.
Mount Bonpland 080 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Panorama from Pt 2195m, Humboldt Mountains. Looking west.
Mount Bonpland 083a Ailsa Mountains Caples River Climbing Darran Mountains David Peaks Humboldt Mountains Moffat Peak Mount Bonpland Mount Charlton Mount Christina Mount Crosscut Mount Lyall Mountaineering New Zealand Pyramid Peak Sabre Peak Southern Alps Tramping Triangle Peak
Panorama from Pt 2195m, Humboldt Mountains. Looking west.
Mount Bonpland 083b Ailsa Mountains Caples River Climbing Darran Mountains David Peaks Humboldt Mountains Moffat Peak Mount Bonpland Mount Charlton Mount Christina Mount Crosscut Mount Lyall Mountaineering New Zealand Pyramid Peak Sabre Peak Southern Alps Tramping Triangle Peak
Sidling an exposed scree ramp under Pt 2195m
Mount Bonpland 086 Climbing Humboldt Mountains Mount Bonpland Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping

Southern Alps Photography

Mount Bonpland traverse, 12 - 13 January 2015

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