Attempt on Fastness Peak, 6 - 8 February 2016

Day 1: We crossed a swollen Matukituki River West Branch at Camerons Flat, then walked up the Matukituki River East Branch to Junction Flat, the Kitchener River to Aspiring Flats and up Rainbow Stream to Pt 1724m west of Wilmot Saddle. We descended Erik Bradshaw's route into the head basin of Ruth Stream, where we bivvied at 1300m of elevation.
Day 2: We climbed what used to be the Tartarus Icefall, then down the Upper Volta Glacier before climbing steep slopes to the west ridge of Fastness Peak. Open schrunds dictated our route choice more than anything else, pushing us much higher up the west ridge than we would have liked to. We were not able to sidle to the south-west ridge, and a steep gendarme on the west ridge turned us around at 2320m of elevation. We retraced our steps to our bivvy site in Ruth Stream.
Day 3: Out the way we had come.

Party: Aaron Whitehead, Susan Lilley, Danilo Hegg.

Trip map. 1 grid square = 1km. Left click on map then select "Sizes -> Original" in bottom right corner of screen to view full size.
View up Rainbow Stream and Fastness Peak from Aspiring Flats
Fastness Peak attempt 011 Aspiring Flats Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tramping
View down Rainbow Stream to Aspiring Flats. Duncans Knob, the Mildewed Meg and Mount Avalanche are on the prominent ridgeline at centre image. Niger Peak and Fog Peak are back left.
Fastness Peak attempt 044 Aspiring Flats Climbing Duncans Knob Fog Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mildewed Meg Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Avalanche Mountaineering New Zealand Niger Peak Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tramping
Scrambling up the slabs towards the Volta Glacier. Sisyphus Peak and Wilmot Saddle are in the background.
Fastness Peak attempt 055 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Sisyphus Peak Southern Alps Tartarus Icefall Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Upper Volta Glacier and Glacier Dome
Fastness Peak attempt 074 Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Upper Volta Glacier and Glacier Dome
Fastness Peak attempt 077 Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Taking a rest on the Upper Volta Glacier. Fastness Peak is in the background.
Fastness Peak attempt 082 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
On the Upper Volta Glacier. Fastness Peak above.
Fastness Peak attempt 084 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
On the Upper Volta Glacier. Glacier Dome is in the background.
Fastness Peak attempt 089 Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
The summit of Fastness Peak from our turn-around point at 2320m of elevation on the west ridge.
Fastness Peak attempt 104 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping
Popes Nose and Mount Aspiring / Tititea from Fastness Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 106 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Popes Nose Southern Alps Tititea Tramping
Popes Nose and Mount Aspiring / Tititea from Fastness Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 108 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Popes Nose Southern Alps Tititea Tramping
Rob Roy Peak, Mount Avalanche, Popes Nose and Mount Aspiring / Tititea from Fastness Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 109 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Avalanche Mountaineering New Zealand Popes Nose Rob Roy Peak Southern Alps Tititea Tramping Vulcan Glacier
View of the Haast Range from Fastness Peak. From left to right are Rolling Pin, Mainroyal, Skyscraper and Stargazer.
Fastness Peak attempt 110 Climbing Fastness Peak Haast Range Mainroyal Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Rolling Pin Skyscraper Southern Alps Stargazer Tramping
Upper Volta Glacier and Glacier Dome from the slopes of Fastness Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 112 Climbing Fastness Peak Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
The Upper Volta Glacier from the slopes of Fastness Peak. Pickelhaube stands out left of centre image. Mount Pollux and Castor are back left, Mount Alba centre-right.
Fastness Peak attempt 113 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Alba Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Castor Mount Pollux Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Glacier Dome from the slopes of Fastness Peak
Fastness Peak attempt 114 Climbing Fastness Peak Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier
The Upper Volta Glacier from the slopes of Fastness Peak. Pickelhaube stands out left of centre image. Mount Pollux and Castor are back left, Mount Alba back right.
Fastness Peak attempt 116 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Alba Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Castor Mount Pollux Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
The Upper Volta Glacier from the slopes of Fastness Peak. Glacier Dome is at centre image, with Mount Pollux, Pickelhaube and Mount Alba back right.
Fastness Peak attempt 127a Climbing Fastness Peak Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Alba Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Castor Mount Pollux Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
On the lwoer slopes of Fastness Peak, above the Upper Volta Glacier.
Fastness Peak attempt 131 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Crevasses on the Upper Volta Glacier
Fastness Peak attempt 132 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier crevasse crevasses glacier
On the lower slopes of Fastness Peak, above the Upper Volta Glacier.
Fastness Peak attempt 133 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Upper Volta Glacier slushy
Fastness Peak attempt 136 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Upper Volta Glacier slushy
Fastness Peak attempt 138 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Descending what used to be the Tartarus Icefall from the Upper Volta Glacier into Ruth Stream head basin.
Fastness Peak attempt 141 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tartarus Icefall Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier
Matukituki River East Branch and Dragonfly Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 143 Climbing Dragonfly Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Southern Alps Tartarus Icefall Tramping
Panorama from the (ex) Tartarus Icefall. From left to right are Unnamed Peak Pt 2127m, Albert Burn Saddle, Dragonfly Peak, Mount Eostre, Sisyphus Peak, Wilmot Saddle. Further back are Black Peak, Fog Peak, Sharks Tooth Peak, Craigroyston Peak.
Fastness Peak attempt 151a Climbing Dragonfly Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Eostre Mountaineering New Zealand Sisyphus Peak Southern Alps Tartarus Icefall Tramping Wilmot Saddle
The route out of Ruth Stream to Pt 1724m above Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 156a Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Sisyphus Peak Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle route topo
Looking up the spur that leads out of Ruth Stream to Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 171 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
The east face of Fastness Peak at the head of Ruth Stream
Fastness Peak attempt 190 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping
The east face of Fastness Peak at the head of Ruth Stream
Fastness Peak attempt 200a Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping
View down Ruth Stream. Unnamed Peak Pt 2127m is at centre image.
Fastness Peak attempt 203 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping
Climbing out of Ruth Stream towards Wilmot Saddle
Fastness Peak attempt 205 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
The east face of Fastness Peak at the head of Ruth Stream
Fastness Peak attempt 209 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping
Ruth Stream head basin. Tantalus Rock is top right; the snowfield right below is what remains of the Tartarus Icefall.
Fastness Peak attempt 217a Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tantalus Rock Tartarus Icefall Tramping
On Pt 1724m near Wilmot Saddle, looking towards Tantalus Rock and Pickelhaube.
Fastness Peak attempt 222 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Southern Alps Tantalus Rock Tartarus Icefall Tramping Wilmot Saddle
On Pt 1724m near Wilmot Saddle, looking towards Glacier Dome, Pickelhaube and Tantalus Rock.
Fastness Peak attempt 223 Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Southern Alps Tantalus Rock Tartarus Icefall Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Wilmot Saddle
The east face of Fastness Peak at the head of Ruth Stream, photographed from Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 225 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
View of Glacier Dome, Pickelhaube and Tantalus Rock from Pt 1724m near Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 226 Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tantalus Rock Tartarus Icefall Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Wilmot Saddle
Route out of Ruth Stream to the Volta Glacier. We went up the line on the left - not good - descended the right-hand route (true left) through the slabs - much better.
Fastness Peak attempt 226a Climbing Glacier Dome Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Pickelhaube Ruth Stream Southern Alps Tantalus Rock Tartarus Icefall Tramping Upper Volta Glacier Volta Glacier Wilmot Saddle route topo
View south from Pt 1724m near Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 233 Black Peak Climbing Craigroyston Peak Duncans Knob Fog Peak Homestead Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Repulse Mountaineering New Zealand Sharks Tooth Peak Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
View south from Pt 1724m near Wilmot Saddle.
Fastness Peak attempt 233a Black Peak Climbing Craigroyston Peak Duncans Knob Fog Peak Homestead Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Repulse Mountaineering New Zealand Sharks Tooth Peak Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Rob Roy Peak and Mount Avalanche, the Hood Glacier showing below the latter.
Fastness Peak attempt 235 Climbing Hood Glacier Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Avalanche Mountaineering New Zealand Rainbow Stream Rob Roy Peak Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Popes Nose and Mount Aspiring / Tititea above Rainbow Col
Fastness Peak attempt 238 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Popes Nose Rainbow Col Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tititea Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Moncrieff Peak, Popes Nose and Mount Aspiring / Tititea above Rainbow Col
Fastness Peak attempt 239 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Moncrieff Peak Mount Aspiring Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Popes Nose Rainbow Col Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tititea Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Ruth Flat and Unnamed Peak Pt 2127m
Fastness Peak attempt 240 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Ruth Flat Southern Alps Tramping Wilmot Saddle
Rainbow Stream was named after the rainbow that forms under the waterfalls precipitating from Fastness Peak (NZAJ Vol IV, No 18, 1931, p216-226). Good to see that 85 years later the rainbow is still there ;-)
Fastness Peak attempt 249 Climbing Fastness Peak Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Mount Aspiring National Park Mountaineering New Zealand Rainbow Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tramping waterfall
Rainbow Stream, looking up to Rainbow Col and Moncrieff Peak. Mount Avalanche back left.
Fastness Peak attempt 251 Climbing Matukituki Matukituki River East Branch Moncrieff Peak Mount Aspiring National Park Mount Avalanche Mountaineering New Zealand Rainbow Col Rainbow Stream Southern Alps Tramping waterfall

Southern Alps Photography

Attempt on Fastness Peak, 6 - 8 February 2016

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